Ron Neumann & Barb Coxworth
We arrived in the Algarve region in sourthern Portugal in January, which is considered the low season here. Our home base for this adventure is in the Lagos area, specifically Porto de Mós. This spot has been perfect for us so far. We’re just a five-minute walk to the cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and about ten minutes to the local beach. It’s an area filled with newer condos, giving it a modern and comfortable feel. The condos are only a maximum of 4 storeys high, so you still get a good view of the landscape. Meanwhile, Lagos old town and the harbour are just a quick five-minute drive away, providing us with easy access to history and charm.
A Cost-Effective Getaway
We were pleased to find good direct flights available to Faro from Canada, which could have made our journey more convenient since we ended up going through Lisbon with a good flight and a short stopover in the Azores. Visiting in January has its perks, and the reduced cost is certainly one of them. We found a lovely condo on VRBO for a very reasonable price, and Airbnb also has a good selection of furnished condos. Travelling during the low season not only saves money but also means fewer crowds. We have traveled to a winery, castle, fort and many small towns. Many attractions are free, but be sure to ask for a seniors discount if there is a charge.
Exploring Lagos and Beyond
Walking through Lagos old town has been a delight. There are so many great shops and restaurants to discover, and we’ve found ourselves gravitating there often. The other side of the marina also offers picturesque views and some excellent dining options. So far, every meal has been a treat, and we’re enjoying exploring the culinary scene.
While exploring, we noticed the streets are very clean, and there are recycling stations everywhere. There is some grafitti and many murals in town which add to the unique and local character. Much of the old town areas are paved with cobblestone, which may cause problems for walking for some people, but they’re generally quite level. In our experience, the Algarve also seems to be quite a safe area, and we’ve felt comfortable wandering around at any time of day.
The walking paths at Ponta da Piedade are close by and provide a great destination to see amazing rock formations and caves. You can even walk the 212 steps down to the beach level. You can pay 20 Euros to get a boat tour of the caves, but we are saving that for a future adventure.
The beaches and cliffs nearby have provided entertainment as we watch the surfers or paragliders. On the weekends, we see lots of locals braving the weather to spend time on the beach even when it is too cold for us. Some of them even go into the water for a brief swim, but most surfers and others are wearing wetsuits.
We have already met up with other people from Ontario, and there are also many visitors from England and Germany. If you’d like to learn more or connect with others before you come, there are lots of social media sites on Facebook you can join to read (and ask) the types of questions other people have about visiting the Algarve.
Winter Weather, Algarve Style
The weather here has been fantastic for January. Most days, the temperatures hover between 9°C and 17°C, and we even had one sunny day where it reached 19°C—shorts and t-shirt weather! Now, after two glorious weeks of sunshine, the rain has arrived, giving me the perfect excuse to sit down and write this blog.
We planned for this weather and brought a good collection of clothing which could be layered or removed as the day got hotter.
Driving Adventures
Driving has been a surprisingly pleasant experience. The roads are relatively quiet this time of year, which has made it easier to learn how to drive a manual car and get accustomed to the abundance of roundabouts. And when I say “abundance,” I mean roundabouts are everywhere! They’re much more common than stoplights or stop signs, but they keep traffic flowing smoothly.
If you prefer not to drive, there is a good train service that can take you to local towns. We’ve also found Uber to be very effective. We use it to get into parts of the old town where we’re not comfortable driving. It’s also handy if you want to enjoy wine with your dinner and not worry about getting behind the wheel.
A Relaxed Pace
The beaches, restaurants, and shops are blissfully uncrowded. While some places are closed for the “winter season,” there’s still plenty to see and do. The locals are friendly and accommodating. Most people speak English or at least tolerate our limited Portuguese, and no one has been rude—if not friendly, they are definitely efficient.
We have generally taken our time when visiting the local towns, visiting only one or two per day. This allows us to settle in to the local region and try to get a real sense of what it would be like to live in that town. This makes for extra fun with lots of wine and coffee stops!
Fresh Food
We have enjoyed time at the local market getting great-tasting local vegetables and fruits. We have also found the local grocery stores to have an excellent selection of foods, including lots of seafood. We love this area because they are rated as having one of the lowest percentages of preprocessed food in the world. The abundance of fresh options is truly satisfying and helps us keep to our diets (if we could just stop eating those tasty Pastel de Natas!).
The local restaurants have provided us with a good taste of the regional food with lots of seafood choices. We have been impressed with the selection of options and the number of Indian resturaunts as well as other international choices. Most of the options are based on fresh local food and the dishes have not disappointed. Although most prices are “reasonable” we have also stopped at a few fancier places which charge more. Our best experience so far has been in Lagas at Casinha do Petisco to enjoy their cataplana. This busy family run place is a “must visit” when you are in the area.
Cost of Living
We’ve found prices to be quite reasonable. Although the exchange rate of about $1.50 CAD to 1 Euro adds up, costs here seem comparable to home. The supermarkets are well-stocked with almost everything we need, and while many of the brands are new to us, we’ve spotted some familiar ones.
We have been using our credit card for most activities, but be aware that some places only take cash. The Euro is the only cash used here, so it’s wise to have some on hand.
One thing that’s stood out is the wine selection. Every store has an impressive variety, with prices starting as low as $4 CAD. We’re still discovering our favourites, but so far, Royal Farmer has been a solid value choice for our 8 p.m. glass of wine. We are still searching for our favourite “early wine.”
Exploring the Region
Getting around the Algarve has been straightforward. The road system is easy to navigate, and parking has been hassle-free. Look for the large blue “P” signs to find parking areas. In some towns, parking is free, while others have meters. During the low season, rates are often reduced.
In our first two weeks, we’ve visited several towns, travelling from west to east. Luckily, most tours and day trips continue to operate throughout the winter, so there’s no shortage of places to explore:
- Sagres – Known for its fort, dramatic cliffs and windswept beaches, Sagres is a haven for surfers and adventurers.
- Salema – A charming fishing village with a quiet beach, perfect for relaxation and traditional seafood.
- Burgau – This picturesque town combines cobblestone streets with a serene beach vibe.
- Luz – A family-friendly resort town with golden sands and stunning views of Rocha Negra.
- Porto de Mós – A tranquil beachside spot with striking cliffs and a peaceful atmosphere.
- Lagos – A vibrant town with a historic center, lively marina, and stunning rock formations.
- Monchique – A lush mountain retreat with thermal spas and panoramic views of the Algarve.
- Silves – A historical gem with a Moorish castle and a rich medieval past.
- Faro – The capital of the Algarve, known for its historic walled city and cultural landmarks.
- Olhão – A fishing town with colorful markets and access to the stunning Ria Formosa islands.
- Tavira – A picturesque town with a rich history, cobbled streets, and a Roman bridge.
As you can see from the map, we have already travelled from one end of the Algarve to almost the border with Spain. The trip from one end to the other is under two hours by car, making the entire Algarve region very accessible.
Future Plans
We still have a list of towns we’d like to visit once the rain clears:
- Alvor – A quaint fishing town with a scenic riverfront and excellent seafood restaurants.
- Portimão – A bustling city known for its marina, shopping, and nearby Praia da Rocha.
- Lagoa – Famous for its wineries and the breathtaking coastline of hidden caves and coves.
- Armação de Pêra – A lively beach town with a mix of modern resorts and fishing traditions.
- Carvoeiro – A picturesque coastal town with stunning cliffs and a cozy beach.
- Porches – Known for its traditional pottery and serene countryside setting.
- Albufeira – A lively resort town with bustling nightlife and sandy beaches.
- Praia da Falésia – Famous for its stunning red and white cliffs and pristine beach.
- Vilamoura – A luxury resort town with a glamorous marina and world-class golf courses.
- Quarteira – A relaxed coastal town with a long promenade and a local fish market.
- Loulé – A cultural hub with a vibrant market, charming old town, and traditional crafts.
Staying Connected
Before we left, we purchased an eSIM for our phones, which cost $12 for 30 days and included 4GB of data. After realising how useful it was for GPS navigation, we upgraded to 10GB for an additional $14. Staying connected has made exploring even easier. We also joined several Facebook groups focused on Algarve travel and living. They’re an excellent resource to see the types of questions other people ask and to pose your own queries if something comes up.
Accessible Waterfronts
One of the things that has truly impressed us is how well they utilise their waterfront areas. The boardwalks, free beach access, and parks make it easy for everyone to enjoy the stunning coastline. This is something we think Ontario cities could learn from.
Final Thoughts
Our first impressions of the Algarve have been overwhelmingly positive. The beautiful scenery, friendly locals, and relaxed pace have made this a winter getaway to remember. We’re already thinking about making this an annual trip. With another month to go before we head further north, we’re excited to see what else this region has to offer. For now, we’ll enjoy the rain from our cosy condo and dream about our next sunny day adventure.
Until next time, obrigada for reading!
If you have thoughts to share based on your travels, or you want to ask questions, please include them in the comments below.
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